A Blushing Three-Way.

Pearl-clutching and a not-so-little trifle.

There is not too much to laugh about in Waitrose, it’s not that kind of place, unless you count the maniacal, hysterical hybrid laugh/sob which escapes my lips when I pay for my shopping. It’s my happy place but it’s not my ha ha place (that’s trying on amusing hats or spelling out rude words with initial jewellery for the childish gratification of myself and my friends).

However as I headed towards the exit with my trolley the other day, I passed the recipe card stand and then doubled back to check I had read a particular recipe card correctly. It said “Three Ways With Blush Oranges”. What on god’s earth is a blush orange, I thought. Surely they cannot be referring to a blood orange? They were. I can only hazard a guess as to why they are referred to as blush oranges - it isn’t a variety, the variety is Tarocco. Does Waitrose want us to think of mediterranean sunsets, Farrow & Ball paint charts and coy virgins, rather than death and periods? Or maybe someone was just feeling a little poetic and there’s nothing wrong with that. Anyway, I have to thank them for the unexpected bark of laughter that erupted out of me and kept me snickering to myself on the rainy drive home. I have already bought blood oranges this week, I spotted them in Marks & Spencer, who are never short of a superlative themselves, but had boldly called them blood oranges this time and I thank them for it. It’s a good description of the colour, but also the way the juicy vesicles resemble blood-filled capillaries. Have you ever peeled the slightly tougher skin of a blood orange and had the juice run down the inside your wrists forcing you to catch it with your tongue before it soaks your sleeve? It is a sensual fruit, not a shy one. Food can evoke memory but the thoughts do not necessarily repulse. You only have to look at a blood orange and the mere sight of it evokes crimson sunsets or one too many margueritas on distant beaches, but I think Waitrose customers can cope with the sight of blood. Maybe Waitrose could channel Bridgerton in the advertising and have sexy virgins AND bloody duels. Win win.

“Sometimes in the early winter, to much color has drained out of the kitchen, leaving behind a balanced spectrum made up of the browns, greens, and white of mushrooms, root vegetables, cabbages and winter fruits. But those dark days are soon brightened by the jewel-like colors of blood oranges. Their flashy flesh, streaked with purple, crimson, orange and yellow is as striking as any work of art, and when they reappear on our menus, the food begins to sparkle again.”

Alice Waters, Chez Panisse Fruit Cookbook

Photo by Bruna Branco on Unsplash

Feeling like I wanted a little sparkle on my food and to look at little crimson wheels on a dessert (frankly, I want to look at anything which resembles the sun just to remember what it bloody looks like), I decide to make a trifle. The seven panettones (six gifts, one gift to myself) from Christmas were also an incentive. Otherwise making trifle now when the rest of the world are trying to shed calories feels like madness. I presented it to Adrian for dessert (serves at least 8) and he shook his head sadly and said “It’s like you don’t know me at all”. Honestly, he is so dramatic, I had forgotten he doesn’t like custard. We are headed for the divorce court. Anyway he had some trifle, in solidarity I thought, but really to confirm to me that he does not like trifle and perhaps if I was better wife I would know this. I farmed the rest out to a dessert-loving friend who in turn farmed it out to her dessert-loving friend. When I say serves 8, I mean greedy 8 (people like me) but it could easily serve 10. This recipe could easily be halved and served in individual glasses or bowls. Trifles are pleasingly imperfect in the dessert world. You could also buy custard, I wouldn’t stop you. I just like making custard even if my husband hates it or maybe because of it…mwah ha ha.

Blood Orange Panettone Trifle

Custard

150 ml double cream

300 ml whole milk

2 large egg yolks

1½ tbsps cornflour

50g caster sugar

¾ vanilla extract

***

400g panettone

4 blush (kidding!) blood oranges

2 tbsps Grand Marnier

2 tbsps Seville orange marmalade

300 ml double cream

250 ml mascarpone cream

25g shelled, chopped pistachios, for decoration

Method

First make the custard as it will need to be chilled. Pour the double cream, milk and vanilla extract into a medium saucepan, adding 25g of the caster sugar. Heat and stir gently to dissolve the sugar. Place the egg yolks and remaining 25g of caster sugar in a bowl and whisk until pale in colour. Then whisk the cornflour into this mixture. When the milk/cream mixture begins to steam, remove from the heat and pour a little into the egg mixture to temper it so it does not split. Whisk in a little more and then pour it all back into the saucepan and heat, stirring continuously. As the custard begins to thicken, it will bubble, keep stirring until the consistency can coat the back of a spoon and then remove from the heat and pour into a jug or bowl to cool down. Cover with cling film, making sure that the cling film is actually touching the surface, this will prevent a skin forming.

Cut the panettone into 2 cm slices and line the bottom of the trifle bowl. Brush the top of these with the Grand Marnier and then spread the marmalade on top.

Prepare the blood oranges by removing the top and bottom of the orange with a sharp knife and then using the knife to cut downwards, remove the skin and pith. Cut the oranges horizontally into 3mm thick wheels and then place them around the inside of the trifle bowl. Lay the remaining slices on top of the marmalade, pouring over any juice that might have escaped whilst slicing. Pour the cooled custard on top of the slices and gently level.

Whisk the double creams until soft peaks form and then gently fold in the mascarpone. Sprinkle the top with pistachios.

Settle down to enjoy and undo the top button of your jeans.

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